West coast of Ireland - September 2004
|
|
West coast of Ireland - September 2004 |
The midges can’t be as bad as on Skye?
These were our thoughts as we boarded the over night ferry from Swansea to Cork. For the last two year we’d spent our summer on the West Coast of Scotland, providing fresh meat for the local midges. We had camped in so many beautiful spots but found ourselves driven into the tent early in the evening. Despite efforts with fires and the most powerful repellent we could buy, they still kept coming, waiting outside the tent for a late night snack or making packing a fraught and rushed process. Simon even bought me a head net for Christmas but an easier solution found us looking for some where else to go.
The West Coast of Ireland promised so much, dramatic headlines, high cliffs, big waves and remote islands. We also found friendly people, smoke free pubs and afterwards an excellent guide that can be bought or downloaded for free, called Oileain. Which is one man’s personal obsession to publish a book about over 300 islands around the Irish coastline. It’s worth a read if you are going, but we did manage without it, using Imray charts and OS maps.
Like all visits to a new venue, although both of us had cycled and walked in the area, paddling this coastline would be a new experience and we would have to learn much as we went along. We had three weeks to explore as much as we could, but without any real plan, so after two hours drive from Cork we found ourselves at a pleasant campsite in Glandore. The following day we departed in glorious sunshine and a gentle breeze, heading West we passed Baltimore and camped on Hare Island. From here we could see the Fastnet rock but continued West rounding Mizen Head where we began to feel the power of the swell that had come all the way from America. We were quickly learning that water supply and landing points were few and far between. That night we camped high up on a cliff after landing on some steps and carrying the boats up. The launch the following morning was more exciting and would have been impossible in a large swell.
The following day was much windier and by 1 o’clock we’d camped at the top of a small slipway in Bantry bay, with a clear view of the waves crashing on the rocks as SW force 6 wind blew up the bay. However with a good forecast for the next few days we headed over to Bear Island and some shopping, moving onto camp past Dursey Island in Garnish Bay.
The following day we crossed to Ballinskelligs Bay and on to Bolus Head. As we approached the headland the wind had got up and as we turned under its cliffs, I just thought of Hawaii Five O, as large rolling waves broke in front of us. We had to keep our eyes open during the 2 km down to Ducalla Head as the waves were breaking at irregular intervals and then rolling onto the rocks. An hour later we landed through the surf onto a small sandy beach, only to be greeted by an angry surfer, who couldn’t understand that we weren’t there for the surf but had just come from around the headland and wanted to camp. He suggested, with some force, that we should return. Realising we weren’t welcome we relaunched, paddled another km and landed on a concrete slipway, to find that I’d holed my boat on some rocks during the previous landing, so we decided to stay there. We managed to pitch the tent by driving two pegs into the soft expansion gap between concrete sections and then used our tow line bags, filled with stones to hold the other end of the tent out. Using some gel coat, tissue and gaffer tape I had the hole fixed just before the rain came in.
Repairing the boat, with Great Skellig behind.
The following day was grey and windy; we came through a small gap in Puffin Sound at low tide, which meant we were surrounded by breaking water. We were then blown North to Valencia and took shelter in Portmagee Channel, arriving in Knights Town to glorious sunshine. The following day would be a Bank Holiday and the local boat races were going to take place. Struggling to find somewhere to camp, we asked at the sea front hotel and put our tent up in their front garden, next to the bar. This was later to prove an error of judgement! The following days rowing races would put most Olympic athletics to shame. No special diets or skin-tight suits here, this was ripped jeans, bare chests, packets of chips and pints of Guinness. Hundreds of local people arrived to watch, the competition was intensive, culminating in the Seine boat race. These boats were most impressive; six oars with two men on each oar powered them over a large triangular course. At the end it was a narrow victory for the local team and then the party started at the hotel. We joined in but after midnight it seemed to be slowing down so we headed back to the tent. However things hotted up again and at 5am people we still having a good time, with us camped just outside!
The Hotel Garden, waiting for the party!
We took some time off in Cahersiveen and then headed across Dingle Bay, with the aim of reaching Tralee in three days. This was a crossing of 18 km and by lunch we were in Ventry harbour, before we headed through Basket Sound and around Slea head. As we continued to Sybil head the swell increased and was breaking over hidden rocks making progress quite challenging. Looking for landing place we realised it would be best to continue around to Murreagh. However by now the swell was really running and the wind kept our minds focused on staying up right. As we surfed along the coast we were met by a small open boat occupied by one man and a dog. It seemed impossible that the boat would not fill up, as it flew into the air as it came through the waves. The soul occupant stopped for a short chat and ensured us that we were going the right way, with the tide. I thought how big the waves would be if the tide was running against the wind, he opened the throttle and was last seen flying off over the horizon.
We landed at 5.50pm after covering 55km and switched the radio on to hear, Tropical Storm SW of Ireland, Sole and Fastnet, gale force 8 to storm force 9, expected soon! We slept on this, but every forecast confirmed the same and by the time we left for the short paddle to Murreagh the wind had started to rise already. We landed here and decided to return for the van. If you think the paddling was hard, then try the local bus service! We hitched a lift into Dingle with a local paddler, then three buses and a return drive over some challenging roads, took all day. The wind was now up and we headed North for Galway. That night the storm hit with all its might, at the same time a team trying to row the Atlantic was rescued, as their boat broke up.
The weather stayed unsettled so we set off from Carraroe to explore the islands along the Connemara coastline, with a vague plan of getting to the Aran Islands. However after three days of exploring the weather looked unlikely to settle so we decided to pack and return to Cork.
Ireland is a wonderful place to paddle. There are options whatever the weather but most of all it seemed midgey free. We could sit outside in evening and relax. The whole experience was great. So now you would think we had learnt our lesson but no we then headed North to the Outer Hebrides!
Taking the ferry from Uig to Lochmaddy the conversation concentrated on one subject, what are the midges like? The plan was to have a few days paddling and then join the Outer Hebrides Sea and Surf Symposium. The first few days passed uneventfully, settled weather and some good trips around the islands and over to Harris. However one evening and the following morning the wind had dropped and the midges returned. They seemed to want to make up for a whole summer of being starved and we were going to be their end of summer banquet! By now were camped out side the local village hall and could run there for protection. I can’t remember too much about what we did. It seemed a good relaxed social event; the beer flowed and we met some friendly people. The paddling was not over strenuous but the surfing was great fun. This was coached by world canoe surf champion Tracy (I’m a blond goddess) Sherrington. While Simon went out to prove he was just as good, I got totally trashed but being in a small hard to exit boat, does develop your rolling technique. By now the wind was up to force 7 and the midges were gone! However we still had another lesson to learn, when we realised that a local Friday night out turned into wheely bin racing at 4am! With the lack of taxi’s to get everyone home those left decided to keep everyone else awake!
The summer went far to quickly but both locations offer some of the finest scenery and water that can be paddled on. There is plenty of protection from the weather and endless opportunities to explore the considerable number of islands. Just beware of where you camp.
Andy Biggs – September 2004