NWSK Newsletter 2005
2004 was a wonderful year for NWSK! There were the usual trips to Pembrokeshire and Anglesey as well as some others further a field. During this past year a healthy stream of newcomers came to join us bringing ideas, inspiration and even alcohol to those regulars who have become stalwarts of this inflation proof organisation. The lack of a “club” type organisational structure gives us a unique freedom to enjoy our sport without the need to collect membership fees, elect committees or liaise with/pay fees to a governing body. North West Sea Kayakers is as free as the ocean waves we paddle upon, well almost……! We run almost entirely upon the help, enthusiasm and goodwill of each other brought together by our website.
Last Year, my attempt to run a trip round Hilbre Island in late March was blown out by traditional March gales. I do hope nobody turned up for that. All eyes to the Easter trip to Pembrokeshire when we dusted off our boats and launched ourselves into the new season. A Hilbre Island trip is planned this year, for April, keep an eye on the Forum pages for details.
Andrew and Anne Taylor organised yet another fine and well attended trip based at the Brandy Brook campsite. The site is a real favourite of mine. It lies in a narrow wooded valley about a mile or so inland from Newgale and is well sheltered from the prevailing Southwesterlies. Farmer Pete, the proprietor, was in fine form and managed to sell a few more of his hand crafted, wooden bowls. The weather was unseasonally fine throughout enabling us to paddle every day and tell tall tales around the campfire each night. We visited most of the classic paddling areas, Solva to Porth Clais, Ramsey Island and the Bitches and a fine afternoon from Martin’s Haven, seal watching at Skomer, then south with the ebb round St Anne’s Head to finish at Dale for a beer before sunset.
It has become somewhat of a tradition for NWSK to meet at Rhoscolyn for the May bank holiday weekend. Outdoor Alternative has been getting a bit crowded and noisy recently and driving up and down the narrow lane seems to be getting more difficult especially on busy weekends. I had a quick look at the Pentre Lago campsite and made my decision based on ease of access to the road, nice view and proximity to the pub! (500m). The downside was only one toilet and some noisy (camping) neighbours.
The Paddling was excellent! On Saturday we managed a trip from Rhoscolyn to Porth Dafarch and another group led by Phil and Jeff paddled round the stacks from Soldiers Point. On Sunday Peter Roscoe and I were planning to put our stamina to the test and circumnavigate Anglesey in one day! The sea trial of the Aleut Sea 2 double kayak had gone well on the previous day until the very last thing when the rudder assembly was damaged beyond use. We were not to be discouraged. On Sunday Peter and I launched from Penmon, opposite Puffin Island, to paddle off down the Menai Straits towards Caernarfon. Chris, Tony, Keith and Andy kept us company for a while. Within the first couple of miles we discovered that this boat would be more difficult to handle that anticipated, nevertheless we made it to South Stack by early afternoon by which time the weather were becoming almost ideal. Our passage across Holyhead Bay was swift and relatively easy but having got a soaking in the overfalls off Carmel Head we decided to have a quick pee break at Porth Wen. Once around Point Lynas we could see Puffin Island and the end to our challenge but the fickle Anglesey weather was to have the final say. A southerly wind grew steadily and made the Aleut almost impossible to handle. We struggled ashore at Moelfre after fourteen and a half hours paddling, just 7 miles short!
Many thanks to Keith, who drove across from Rhoscolyn to collect us. I’m sure that there was some more paddling on the Monday but I was too exhausted to notice who went where. The weekend was a stunning success with 18-20 paddlers attending.
Two weeks later…..Round the Island…..
Contributor - Peter Roscoe.
That Jim K! What a smoothie! he talked me into borrowing an Aluet Double, making an abortive attempt on a trip around Anglesey, repairing a damaged rudder and then when I was under the influence of a bottle or two of wine arranged that I should again meet him at the afore mentioned Island and take a tour of the area. His version is probably different but read on.
Meeting up at Kingsbridge campsite with other members of NWSKers we sorted out the bits and pieces for a day out on the water. The weather forecast mentioned all the nice things and the tides were just right for a decent after breakfast departure and so we were able to sort out shuttle cars etc in order for Helen Marsden to join us for a section of the trip.
In order to use maximum tidal assistance we decided on Penmon Priory as the start point for a clockwise circuit. With the Aleut having a cavernous centre hatch we were able to chuck in all manner of bits and pieces whilst Helen carefully prepared her Kayak for the first part of the journey.
Away at 8.00am, as the ebb started its way south westerly, steady paddling saw us making progress down Menai's Straits, the tide helping us to get to the Bridges in good time. The boils, surges and changes of flow were interesting in the Aleut and even twenty foot of kayak is easily moved off course. As the Straits increase in width, the water slows and Dinorwic seemed to drift slowly by. Helen's car had been left at Plas Menai and we waved farewells and headed towards Caernarfon. I'd fancied a breakfast at Safe ways, even an all day one but Jim was keen to push on.
A small amount of disturbed water at Abermenai Point and a change of bearing as we headed across Llanddwyn Bay towards the Island. Stopping off for a wee while and to take on refreshments we wandered around for a few minutes to stretch our legs.
Through the wonders of modern day science (a mobile phone) Jim had arranged to meet Kirstine and Jos but traffic congestion prevented them from meeting us at the appointed place. Shortly after re-launching and turning the point familiar voices were heard and our rendezvous established, lovely really, as Kirstine had brought along a load of chocolate biscuits to share.
The long slog up the coast against the falling tide seemed to have no end, the church, race track, and Rhosneigr reluctant to take shape and it was a pleasure to pause for a drink and food in the shelter of Rhoscolyn beacon. As we approached the small rock of Maen Piscar changes in the water direction indicated that our timing for this leg of the trip were reasonably accurate.
In order to take maximum advantage of the strong tides on the North coast our timing for the journey required us to pass through Penrhyn Mawr as near to the turning tide as possible. Small waves disturbed the surface as a course standing off to sea was made. The turning tide started to take effect and with a now following sea we made good progress towards South Stack. Although we were some way offshore it was possible to make out the tiny figures of Kirstine and Jos who had travelled from Llanddwyn to cheer us along our way.
Carmel Head and the Skerries appeared on the distant horizon as Jim radioed the Holyhead harbourmaster to establish the whereabouts of the high speed ferry. Given the all clear we started on the long haul across Holyhead Bay keeping West Mouse in view beyond the headland.
Passing well to the north of West Mouse we were able to receive maximum tidal assistance and as Harry's, Cemlyn and the chance of an ice cream at Camaes passed by Jim announced speeds in excess of 10 km/hr registering on his GPS.
As we made our way to the north of Middle mouse the wind, never strong on this trip eased slowly and the sea although moving strongly flattened off to an almost oily calm. The rounding of Point Lynas was not going to present the boils and confusion normally met. After some 11 hours of effort and
100 km covered we were feeling the effect of our paddling.
And there they were again, Kirstine and Jos waving from the lighthouse at Lynas, a real boost to our flagging spirits! Thanks so very much.
On our previous attempt at a
circuit, when reaching Ynas Dulas and heading towards Ynys Moelfre a combination
of tides, damaged rudder and fatigue born of frustration had tested us to the
extreme culminating in abandonment when only a couple of hours from our goal.
Fortune favoured us much better this time and as the sun started its gentle
setting our hopes for success gained momentum .As the sun slowly set the sea
around us turned to pink and we looked over our shoulders at a glorious crimson
ball dominating the sky.
A solitary Shearwater twisted and turned its way homeward and during a lull in our paddling we were able to hear porpoises as they breached and sucked in air to fill their lungs. Special moments like this make the aches and pains well worthwhile.
Slowly but ever so pleasantly the outline of Puffin Island emerged from the darkening background and Penmon drew close, determined grimaces started to change to smiles of anticipation.
The day had been wonderfully quiet with little contact with other boaters and as luck (or bad luck) would have it as we drew close to Puffin Island a small but quite noisy fishing boat appeared on our shoulders. A shout to dig deep for a final surge and we crossed his path to finish at Penmon at 9-30 pm, just as darkness closed in.
Surprise, surprise, as we staggered ashore with legs seized up from sitting so long in the kayak there was Kirstine and Jos waiting with an assortment of food to replenish our aching needs.
Loading up the vehicles in the dark and getting back to the campsite seemed to take ages. Once there, we were greeted with a bottle of “ Bubbly” by Chris and Ray. Many thanks gents but within moments of the first glass I was on my way to losing consciousness and retired at great speed to my sleeping bag.
The circuit of Anglesey (some 120 km) took 13 hours 30 minutes in an Aleut double with just a wee stop at Llanddwyn. Numerous faster times than this have been recorded by rather more competitive types, I am suitably impressed, just sitting in a kayak for this length of time is an achievement.
The Aleut although stable is a bit of a beast, the cockpits are further apart than most doubles in order to prevent the need for synchronised teamwork, Jim in the front, took much of the waves when passing through disturbed water.
Sincere thanks to all who bolstered our flagging spirits by their support and encouragement.
Jim K. and Pete.R
……An exceptional weeks paddling from Llanfairfechan to Llanbedrog, that took me to some delightful wild camping spots. Most of my paddling trips have some sort of a plan which contains a degree of organisation, this one however was to be a little different. The planning on this trip didn’t even require the use of a torn up cigarette packet. The basic plan was for me and my partner-in-crime, Trevor to paddle from Llanfairfechan, which is on the North Wales coast between Conwy and Bangor, to Pwllheli on the south coast of the Lleyn Peninsula. We planned to take 5-6 days, meet up with other paddlers along the way and to drop in on some friends whilst in their neighbourhood. The article which describes this trip first appeared in “Ceufad” (Welsh Canoeing Assoc. magazine) but can now be read on the NWSK website.
A Journey that began in the sleepy town of Newport on the North Pembrokeshire coast took us to the pounding of artillery at Range West and Castlemartin in the south. Pembrokeshire offers some of the most spectacular coastal scenery in Wales. On day 3, having just got a weather forecast of Southerly, Force 3 or less with scattered showers we decided to go direct from Solva to Martin’s Haven. A third of the way across, dreamy summer paddling tuned so quickly into a nightmare in the middle of a 7 mile crossing of St Brides Bay! None of us had ever experienced such a change in weather conditions. Sure, we had all been caught in a stiff squall before, it gets windy, it lashes down with rain and then the sun comes out again. This time was different! The extent and intensity of blackness on the horizon told me that this was not just a summer shower passing by. The breeze, building rapidly, smelt wet. We altered our course and headed for shelter, which paid off because the closer we got to the lee shore the smaller the waves became. Making progress was still a great effort and I was feeling exhausted. With great relief we landed on a small beach where we huddled behind a boulder to eat fruitcake and drink scalding hot tea.
It was only after we set off again that the weather did its worst. Initially the wind dropped slightly but only to give way to torrential rain, the likes of which I have only see in the Tropics. The noise of water hitting my kayak, cag and the sea, was more than we could talk over. The visibility was less than 100m. We pushed on for another hour, our route, hugging the shore, until we arrived at Martin’s Haven for a well earned rest and short walk to stretch our legs.
Living in Bedfordshire, about as far from the sea as one can get, I often ask myself “why sea kayaking”? When I think of all the other local exciting opportunities like Grade 1 rivers, and the East Anglian Alps – all 50 feet of them – ideal for hill walking and mountain biking, the few hours behind the wheel to the coast are well worth it.
So back in July/August 04, when Rosie contacted me and said “NWSK are going to circumnavigate Anglesey over the August Bank Holiday, fancy it?”… “Try and stop me!” was my answer. Instant excitement! This is going to be great! All I need now is a boat. Oh! shall I hire one?
“Hello NDK, can I hire a boat please? But they were all booked So I ended up hiring a plastic “something” from elsewhere. Only a few months earlier, having paddled a plastic “something” for 4 days in the Eigg, Skye and Knoydart area, I thought not the best, but it will do the job. And away I went with my plastic “something”.
Friday night at the campsite, Rosie and myself decided to put our camping skills to the test and went down town Beaumaris – along with Pete - for a pub dinner.
On Saturday morning we set out from Puffin Island, anti-clockwise, very light offshore wind from about 10 o'clock and the boat went left. I lifted the right knee and the boat went left. I lifted the right knee, swept on the left and the boat went left. Lift the right knee, sit on the left cheek, sweep on the left and the boat went left. Desperation, drop the skeg, lift, sit, sweep and success, it just about kept out of wind. I remember thinking that if the wind had been onshore, the boat would have turned right, headed for the Isle of Man and I would have been another Life Boat statistic. That thought was going to be proved wrong.
About 11 o’clock we had a quick break with the promise of a lunch break soon after.
17.00 hours. Carmel Head. Approximately 40 - 45km paddled. Jim had wanted to round the Head by 15.00 hrs. I had had only one previous experience of a tide race and that was the North Stack, on a day trip. So now with my back killing me from sitting at an angle most of the day, left arm almost resembling Arnie’s, every stroke a mental as well as a physical effort, not feeling fully in control of the boat, being absolutely cream crackered and faced with the race around the head, I chose the safe option, turned left and headed for shore and our land based rescue team.
Wind now from the right, boat weather cocked to the right, dropped half the skeg and it behaved perfectly and went in the desired direction.
Which leaves a few questions.
1. Why wasn't it an onshore wind?
2. Was the boat bent or packed incorrectly? Or….
3. Was it me???
All opinions and answers to the newsletter please.
The rest of the team headed off but for their own reasons did not round the head and returned to where I was awaiting rescue. We all camped out for the night. Sunday morning the conditions were far from favourable and the team decision was to call off the trip. I was disappointed at not being able to complete the circumnavigation, but also very relieved at not having to get back in that boat. Anglesey will always be there for the next attempt. Hint, hint.
I now have a fibreglass Aquanaut, only used her once at the NWSK end of season weekend – that’s another story – but so far I am very impressed, she goes where I ask when I ask which is very encouraging, so, if I do get invited on another trip………………I’ll have to find something else to moan about.
Thanks to everyone for making it a memorable weekend. I am terrible with names but it was good to meet you all, and thanks to Jim for inviting me along. Why do I remember Jim’s name? Easy, he is on my email list and, he drank most of my whisky!
Contributor - Chris Bolton
Jim Krawiecki, Kirstine Pearson, Chris Krawiecki, Peter Roscoe, Chris Bolton
Late September - just the to time take advantage of the off season in Quiberon to experience the delights of sea paddling in Brittany without the crowds, but before it became too cold. We were quite right, too. No crowds, not even enough people to be worth opening the campsite shop for! Warm as well; shorts and T shirt even in the gale force winds….. the forecast as we left the UK was improving - only Force 7 for most of the week, rather than the Force 8 which had been predicted.
Peter and I loaded up my roof rack with two ordinary sea kayaks and an Aleut double. Once they were on it was all quite secure! We drove overnight to a successful rendezvous with the other 3 paddlers and boats in the ferry queue. It is interesting that to somebody sitting in the check-in booth for a car ferry, an ordinary single sea kayak completely hides the much longer double kayak on the other side of the roof!
On arrival in Quiberon, we didn't fancy cooking, and the shops were shut anyway. Find a restaurant - universal choice of meal being Moules Frites. (mussels & chips) If you've never eaten them you cannot imagine how good they are!
Camping du Conguel in Quiberon has an excellent outlook over the beach, and a very secure wire fence to stop you carrying your boat directly there! However, the fence is good for drying gear on. (Did you ever hear of the gypsy encampment that was criticised for looking like a bunch of sea paddlers?) So, we had to trolley the boats out of the campsite gate, along the road and down to the beach. Once there, we had a gentle warm up paddle along the coast of Quiberon Bay, looking at the old fortifications. Facing SE, this side of the peninsula was sheltered from the prevailing NW force 5-6. Returning along the coast, we went out to the point and into the wind. A very slow kilometre out to the marker was enough to convince us that the wind would need to drop before we consider any serious trips.
Next day, the wind did just that. It dropped to force 4-5, and was forecast to drop further to 3-4 for the next day, before rising to 6 again. It was now or never, if we were to make the crossing to Houat. So it was now - a quick trip over, camp for the night and back before the wind rose. The tidal stream wasn't ideal, but we reckoned we could dodge the worst of it. The trip over was fine; surfing down the swells, watching out for ships and boats. A large French trimaran crossed ahead of us at 15-20 knots. The last few miles along the coast of Houat dragged, due to a foul tide I think, but we arrived safely at the harbour after nearly 3 hours on the water, and went to the café for coffee.
According to the notices round the harbour, pitching a tent by the beach and sitting outside it in swimming trunks, drinking a beer, would break at least 3 and possibly 4 local laws. Apart from that, the locals seemed friendly enough! There is a lot of money on Houat, and campers are relegated to the far side of the island. The area we thought we could camp on was newly closed to camping, and the one remaining area had been devastated by a tornado earlier in the summer (unfortunately, someone had even been killed). Notwithstanding all that, after a pleasant paddle to the far end of the island we found a good camp spot, nice view over to Hoedic, sheltered spot for the boats, etc. Even a table made of old pallets. There was a large house nearby, and a man walked over to the tents and addressed us in French. Were we about to be thrown off ? In fact, he only wanted to ask if we minded him nicking one of the pallets forming the table, presumably for firewood! I walked over to the west coast and watched the waves breaking on the beach - a wild but idyllic place.
Shipping forecast next morning; the expected 3-4 was now 4-5, still from NW. While we had been prepared to battle back against a 3-4, which would probably take us 4 hours of hard paddling, against a 4-5 would take nearer 6 hours, with no option to avoid adverse tide. If anything went wrong, there was no way out. So it was back round to the harbour to find the ferry. We'd seen it the day before, a big, fast catamaran with a nice flat area in the middle to lay kayaks - assuming they were prepared to take them. On the way back round the island, a helicopter flew low overhead and appeared to be making a close inspection of a small islet offshore. It then hovered over the island, lowered two people on a wire and flew off. Shortly afterwards, it re-appeared and lowered another two. Altogether, eight people were left on the island. We reckoned it must be a TV survival epic.
Back to harbour. The ferry was already there fuelling up. According to the timetable, it left at 4:30pm. Only 7 hours to wait, then! We sent Peter to practice his French. "Can you take our kayaks to Quiberon this afternoon?", "Well, possibly, if we don't have too many crates of fish to carry when the fishing boats come in."
Oh well, nothing to do but wait
and see! Let's go for a walk and explore the island. It's a fascinating place.
There's a huge fortress in the middle, only visible once you're nearly on top of
it.
The main
protection is a 20m deep ditch with vertical stone sides. In one area, the sides
are broken down allowing access, so we walled the walls and investigated the new
cylindrical concrete structure in the centre. After considering various military
uses, we realised it was the water tank for the island!
Back to the ticket office, and they sold us tickets for the kayaks. Would these be any use if it was stacked with fish crates? Suspense, as the ferry loaded up. Some discussion, much pointing at kayaks. As it turned out, the main issue was whether we should carry them on ourselves or whether this was the crew's job! It took the ferry almost an hour to get back to Quiberon, at quite a few knots, battering into the sea with a huge surf wave behind it. It would not have been a nice paddle! When we reached the campsite, it was much too late to buy any food, and we were forced to go out and eat moules frite again. What a hard life!
Contributor - Bob Mark
Sea paddling is a wonderful activity that has physical, emotional, mental and even social benefits but it is also demanding, addictive and comes with the potential for injury. Proper preparation, good kit, careful technique and early management of injuries are the keys to continuing pain-free paddling.
The specific injuries we risk in sea paddling can be due to overuse or misuse of our bodies, such as tendonitis, and acute injuries such as strains and dislocations. There are also environmental injuries such as heat illness, cold injury, lightning strikes and attacks by sea borne nasties such as sharks, jelly fish, jet skis and oil tankers….. Believing that prevention is better than cure and that early management is better than denial, I propose to provide an overview of these aspects of sea paddling injuries on the NWSK website shortly if not even now!
Dr Bob.
Mostly, Trevor Shepherd for redesigning our website but also to Paul Heaton for his work over the years running the old site. Thanks also to those who organised trips, it is the goodwill of those who take a little time and effort that make NWSK meets so special. It was an NWSK trip which really got me hooked on Sea Kayaking and I haven’t turned back since. And finally, thanks to anyone who has written an article, sent a photo or indeed helped with organising suitable web space (cheers John!). The website is our means of communicating and sharing information with each other. Please keep those articles and photos coming because its everybody’s contributions that keep our site lively, useful and, hopefully unique.
This Year – dates for your diary.
I’m looking forward to an exiting new season there will be plenty of time to visit old haunts but we have some trips organised to areas not yet explored by NWSK.
Loads of trips planned and constantly added to see trips planned page
Hope to see you all on the water very soon!
Jim Krawiecki